How to Tarp a Roof

Roof damage that calls for an emergency tarp usually has a clear trigger. Common causes include:

• High winds peeling back or removing shingles, especially on older roofs with brittle or loosened fasteners
• Fallen trees or large branches that puncture or crack the decking
• Ice dams forcing water under shingles along the eave line in winter
• Hail impact that cracks or bruises shingles and compromises their waterproofing
• Aging materials that finally fail under the stress of a single heavy storm
• Improper flashing installation around penetrations that eventually separates

Step 1: Assess from the Ground First
Before climbing anything, walk the perimeter of your home and look up to identify the full extent of the damage. Note where debris is sitting, where shingles are missing, and how large the affected area appears. Never go on the roof during active rain, lightning, or high winds.

Step 2: Gather Your Materials
Measure the damaged zone as best you can from ground level or a safely positioned ladder. Add at least four feet to every side of your measurement when selecting tarp size. A tarp that is too large is always better than one that falls short.

Step 3: Set Up Your Ladder Safely
Position your ladder on firm, level ground and have a second person hold it steady at the base. The ladder should extend at least three rungs above the eave so you have something to grip when stepping onto the roof.

Step 4: Clear Loose Debris
Before placing the tarp, carefully remove any loose branches, broken shingles, or debris from the damaged area. This helps the tarp lie flat and seal more effectively against the surface.

Step 5: Position the Tarp
Unfold the tarp and lay it over the damaged area so it extends well past the damage on all sides. Ideally, pull one edge up and over the roof ridge so water running down either slope cannot get underneath. Have your ground assistant help feed the tarp up if the roof is steep.

Step 6: Secure the Edges with Cap Boards
Place a length of two-by-four lumber along one edge of the tarp, folding the tarp over it once or twice to create a reinforced sandwich. Drive exterior screws through the board, through the tarp, and into the roof decking every eight to twelve inches. Repeat this on all four edges. This method distributes load and resists wind uplift far better than screws alone.

Step 7: Check the Ridge Edge
If the tarp extends over the ridge, secure that edge with a cap board as well. Avoid nailing or screwing into the ridge cap shingles any more than necessary - focus fasteners on the decking.

Step 8: Do a Final Inspection
Walk the perimeter of the tarp from the roof (carefully) or look from the ladder to confirm no edges are loose, no large air pockets are trapped underneath, and the tarp is lying as flat as possible. A tarp that flaps in the wind will not last and can cause additional damage.

• Never work on a roof alone - always have someone on the ground with you
• Wet or moss-covered roofs are extremely slippery; wait until the surface is dry if at all possible
• Wear rubber-soled, non-slip boots - not sneakers or work boots with smooth soles
• Use a safety harness anchored to a ridge anchor or chimney bracket on pitches above about 4:12
• Do not walk on damaged sections of decking - they may not support your weight
• Keep your center of gravity low and move deliberately; avoid reaching or leaning
• Check your ladder for damage before use and set it at the correct angle (roughly one foot out for every four feet of height)
• If you feel unsafe at any point, come down and call a professional - a tarp is not worth a serious fall

A tarp is a temporary measure, not a repair. These situations signal that professional help is needed urgently:

• The roof deck itself is soft, crumbling, or has visible holes larger than a few inches - indicating rot or structural damage beyond surface shingles
• Interior ceiling damage, sagging drywall, or visible mold growth, which suggest water has been infiltrating for some time
• Widespread shingle loss covering a large portion of the roof rather than an isolated area
• Structural members in the attic - rafters or trusses - appear cracked, shifted, or visibly strained by debris
• The damage is near or around a chimney, skylight, or HVAC penetration where flashing has failed
• Your insurance company requires a professional damage assessment before approving a claim - a contractor-written report can be essential in this process