How to Fix a Door That Sticks

Step 1: Find the exact contact point
Open and close the door slowly while watching the edges carefully. Run a piece of chalk or a carpenter's pencil along the door edges, then close it - the chalk will transfer to the frame at the point of contact. This tells you exactly where material needs to be removed or hardware needs to move.

Step 2: Check and tighten all hinge screws
Before removing the door, tighten every hinge screw on both the door and the frame. If screws spin without tightening, the hole is stripped. Remove the screw, dip a toothpick or golf tee in wood glue, pack it into the hole, let it dry, then reinsert the screw. This simple fix resolves a surprising number of sticking doors without any further work.

Step 3: Test the door again after tightening
Close and open the door several times after tightening. If it moves freely now, you are done. If it still sticks, move on to the next step.

Step 4: Sand or plane the contact area
For light sticking, use medium-grit sandpaper on a sanding block along the marked contact area. Work gradually and test frequently - you want to remove just enough material for clearance, not create a visible gap. For more significant binding, a hand plane or belt sander will remove material faster. Always work with the grain of the wood when planing.

Step 5: Address hinge depth if needed
If one hinge appears to sit too deep (causing the door to bind on the latch side) or too shallow (causing binding near that hinge), you can correct this. A hinge sitting too deep can be shimmed with thin cardboard placed behind it in the mortise. A hinge sitting proud of the surface means the mortise needs to be deepened slightly with a chisel.

Step 6: Seal and repaint any bare wood
Wherever you sanded, planed, or adjusted, bare wood is now exposed to moisture. Apply an exterior primer and finish with a paint that matches the door. This step is important - skipping it often means the door swells again in the next wet season and you are back to square one.

• Wear safety glasses when planing, sanding, or chiseling to protect against flying debris
• Use a dust mask when sanding, especially on older painted doors where lead paint may be present
• If the home was built before 1978, test the paint for lead before sanding - Thermo-Seal is an EPA Lead-Safe Certified Firm and can help if you suspect lead paint in older homes
• Support the door properly if you remove it from the hinges - solid wood doors are heavy and can fall or cause injury
• Do not force a door that is severely binding - excessive force can crack the frame or damage the door
• Keep children and pets away from the work area when using sharp tools or power sanders